I personally use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get a picture perfect in camera which means that I am not investing time for each and every picture. Most of my pictures have been shot on average 30 minutes.
A picture taken at mid day, might be affected by harsh and high sun light. To overcome this I positioned my model in the shadows created by the actual branches of a considerable palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector in the direct sunlight highlighting soft warm lighting on the front of the model.
I got a light reading from the models face and shot at shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set up to daylight.
This image has been shot in my D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal duration set at 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to emphasize her limbs also therefore we had a excellent connection with regard to creating great energy and leading.
Notice my own lens/eye level is in the middle of the girl torso, this is very important when firing wide angle and close to the subject to steer clear of distortion, ie if you take to high up your versions head will be big and the woman's legs may be like they are brief like a chicken and visa versa so its important to get your eye/camera lens stage at the right just the height in order to avoid distortion,
I will often shoot from the lower angle, especially if I am attempting to emphasize the length of a models legs regarding hosiery pictures.
To keep the sky as azure as possible I photo with a polarizing filtration on my lens, looking towards the west of the actual midday sun. This is how you keep the sea and the sky blue as well as making my personal models skin/tan look nice an soft by getting rid of some of the actual specular reflections on her behalf skin.
If I had been capturing facing a lot more to the east the sky and the sea would have been far more burned out..
When I started shooting digital I were built with a lot of issues because I attempted to shoot digital exactly as I shot motion picture. Now any time I am shooting, I will always beneath expose from the meter reading through, this is done for a couple of of reasons, in order to saturate color as well as to ensure I am not necessarily loosing my high lights. Obviously my personal images are going to be a little on the dark side but I can easily proper for this using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the retouching process.
I usually shoot raw files and a little jpg, the reason why I will explain in another Tiny Gem.
I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open these in Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re image info and also will result in far better quality images).
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